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Now with the new rules - permitting blocks in the kicker system - you can rig a very efficient kicker control for very litle money. |
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I have attached the
two Ronstan rf20101's to the key block and the end of the kicker
line. |
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Pass
the line through the bottom v jammer and |
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back
though the top hanging block . |
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| Now you need to finish off the 3:1 you have made. This is a sort of knot around the bottom v jammer |
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| This is the locking knot - now you have to replicate it on the other side. |
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Pass the rope around the other side - and back in the same exit hole - but back out
the other side of the block |
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| Yep this is the other hole in the block. |
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| Ensure that as the rope comes out - you use it to lock the 'round the block' rope. |
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| Adjustments in the rope length are easy to make - |
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| Now with the new locked off end - you can go back to make a 2:1 with the rest of the 3:1 - (this will make it a 6:1) |
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| Back to the v jammer - and |
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| Out ..... |
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Check the overall length of the kicker - from end of kicker key - to pin on the kicker tang - Rooster set all their vangs to 63cm. This should be a basic setting that can be tensioned or loosened for windy and light settings. Note that the 63cm is the maximum off it should be able to go off - at this point, the little block is at the top of the key block.. |
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Now
the length is right - start a rope loop handle - keep making
a loop and passing a loop of rope through it.. |
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To finish it - pull
all the rope though the last loop |
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After tying a bowline
to complete the handle - you now have enough rope to tie the
tail to the centreboard handle - making it easier to find the
kicker control |
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MAINSHEET It is advisable to wash the mainsheet in the washing machine on a cold wash with a little powder to wash out any oils from the rope. These oils were used to allow the rope to be made extra tight with more body, so that it kinks less when it is used, but would make it slippery for the first 3 or 4 days of use. Always treat it with respect and coil it up after sailing so kinks never form. V. IMPORTANT: When you rig it on the boat – please ensure that all the coils and kinks are taken out of the rope before you dead end it in the boat (the rope will not absorb or create kinks from then on) – it will then behave like a snake! I throw mine across the boat park and pull out all twists from coiling before I rig it on the boat. Buy a mainsheet |
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OUTHAUL Rigged to my specification with 2 eyelets. I make an extra loop in the rope to act as a break so that the rope does not hang down. I advise that I rig it for you, as this is a real macramé job. Remember to leave it rigged when de rigging by taking it off the mast when it comes down. Always put boom on underneath the rope so that the rope keeps out of your way. |
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This is the finished article - now as rigged by Rooster - with two ball bearing blocks - and using 4mm Spectwelve rope - A great compromise - and you still have two ball bearing blocks to use - should you decide to go for the new deck system some time.... |
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OUTHAUL END KNOT Sometimes called the Kiwi knot. It keeps the tied rope away from the adjusting part of the rope. It is simply a granny knot with a knot at the end. |
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| TOE STRAP ADJUSTMENT A: Rope needs to be quite rough to work and hold but toe strap is held central in boat. |
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| B: Rope can be slippery to allow ease of adjustment but ultimately not equal lengths on each tack. (used by Steve Cockerill) |
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CUNNINGHAM The new 6:1 Cunningham System comes with blocks spliced and ready to go - take a look at this and if you are not sure how it is rigged, take a look at this link. This 6:1 system makes the old rope and loop look prehistoric - its not expensive Buy a New Ronstan Based 6:1 Cunningham
Add a New Harken Based 6:1 Cunningham A long forded D shackle makes it easier to take off and put on the kicker tang - also prevents damage to the spectra - |
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